I’ve never been a birdwatcher–a bird listener, yes; snuggling under my sheets on cool spring mornings delighting in the dawn chorus. And, I confess, I have always stopped to stare at hummingbirds. But a birdwatcher? Or as the British say, a twitcher? Never. Until, that is, I recently spent two weeks in The Gambia in West Africa.
Birds by the bushel
An astonishing 540 species have been recorded in this sliver of a country that flows like a misfit stream between the upper and lower portions of Senegal. Above the red clay earth and majestic baobab trees, in sleepy mangroves and thick forests, birds gather in dazzling profusion. The krrrrrrr oo-OO, oo, ooOO cries of the African mourning doves and the nattering of glossy starlings sporting curlicue tails stir the sultry air. Overhead, blue-bellied rollers flash under-wings of brilliant turquoise and the largest heron in the world lifts over the creeks like an unfurled umbrella.The birds of Gambia are surprising. But my experience of watching them more so.
Inhabiting our lives
Imagine walking in a steamy gallery forest along the banks of a river. It’s too hot to stride fast, and the trees press in making progress slow. I hear rustles, squawks, shaking branches. Fallen fruits assail my nostrils with sweetness. I sense animals all around me, but all I see are leaves, choking vines and massive palm fronds so sharp they can slice through flesh.I stop to bird watch. I inhale the smell of fungus and become attuned to the surrounding susurrus. Out of the corner of my eye, I spot a bird the color of mustard. A red bill fire finch hops from branch to branch. Minutes pass.Monitor lizards, red colobus monkeys, fleet-footed Gambian sun squirrels and confetti-bright birds begin to emerge from the canopy. Over my left shoulder on a wide branch a vervet monkey grooms its child. My breath slows, stills. By waiting and watching, I have allowed the forest to find me.
Christian Wiman, Editor of Poetry Magazine writes: “Let us remember … that in the end we go to poetry for one reason, so that we might more fully inhabit our lives and the world in which we live them, and that if we more fully inhabit these things, we might be less apt to destroy both.” We go to bird watching for the same reason.Bird watching teaches us to fully inhabit the world by learning how to pay attention to it. What we come to see and know intimately we are less likely to destroy.
My friend Bill Carney will ask me for all the names of the birds I saw. I will give him my list, but many of the names will escape me. What I won’t forget is the peacefulness that flooded me as I sat quietly befriending this new landscape and its inhabitants. Like a mother first setting eyes on her newborn child, I was filled with awe that life can be so extravagantly, improbably beautiful.